Asia Grace

Afghanistan Photographs

Worry beads

Worry beads

While waiting for a bus in an old caravansi in Herat, I encountered this fellow...


Buzkashi game

Buzkashi game

In the spring, the dry desert of Afghanistan can awaken to a green carpet of...


Sheep Market

Sheep Market

The outskirts of an adobe town serves as the sheep market. Here sheperds and butchers...


Samovars in tea house

Samovars in tea house

An innkeeper works two samovars, keeping his customers supplied with constant china pots of tea....


Discussion

Discussion

In a courtyard of the great blue mosque, two gentlemen engage in a debate one...


Early morning

Early morning

Along an unpaved street at dawn, stores remained shuttered until the afternoon sun warms up....


Caravanasi

Caravanasi

Two men load up a camel for the long haul back to their farms. This...


Bus stop

Bus stop

Waiting at a caravanasi, which now serves as a bus stiop. The pegs in the...


Chapandoz

Chapandoz

"Get the carcass to the goal"; that's the only rule of the game. In this...


Buzkashi game

Buzkashi game

Riders provoke their horses to head into the furious melee. Some riders have partners who...


Carrying a carcass

Carrying a carcass

The ball for this game of buzkashi is the headless carcass of a calf. Sometimes...


Chappadaz rider

Chappadaz rider

A buzkashi rider pauses during a game. Clutching his whip in this teeth (the whip...


Buzkashi game

Buzkashi game

Traditionally this game is played on Friday afternoons (the Muslim "Sunday") on an empty field...


Dusty Street

Dusty Street

It looks romantic and photogenic but this wonderful lighting is caused by horrible amounts of...


Afghan living room

Afghan living room

The inside of a traditional adobe farmhouse can be surprisingly bright and cheery. This farmer's...


Carpet bag

Carpet bag

Carpet bags saddle a donkey. Woven as kilim, the bags reflect traditional arts. Donkey and...


Bridge

Bridge

This classic bridge in the historic town of Kholm still sees a lot of traffic...


Shop keeper's abacus

Shop keeper's abacus

The collison of the west and the oriental is clearly seen in this Afghani scene....


Blind musician

Blind musician

It's not unusual for musicians and balladeers to be blind, as this one was. He...


Domed roofs

Domed roofs

Where timber is expensive, you can make a roof with adobe mud by creating domes....


Morning tea

Morning tea

Breakfast in Afghanistan. Green tea in handleless cups. Golden raisins, dried on roof tops. Walnuts....


Carpet weaving tools

Carpet weaving tools

The tools for carpet weaving are simple and few. There's the loom, in a horizontal...


Horse traffic

Horse traffic

Once called the "mother of cities" Balkh is now untidy ruins of mud. Farmers still...


Melon market

Melon market

A wholesale market for melons, Afghanistan's reknowned export. These will go to Iran and Pakistan,...


Central market

Central market

I recall this market scene distinctly because it was a dense, crowded and active market,...


Shepherd boys

Shepherd boys

Two boys rest. They are hearding goats (not in view) in a totally barren landscape....


Mosque

Mosque

Because of the Islamic prohibition against pictures of people or animals, the great Islamic mosques...


Carpet Market

Carpet Market

On carpet market day in a northern border town, men display the carpets their wives...


Man and son

Man and son

On a fall day a father heads to market with his son. Normally a child...


Melon growers

Melon growers

Bcause of its climate, Afghanistan produces some of the world's best melons: watermelons, cantalopes, honeydew,...


Barber

Barber

A barber uses a pair of hand-operated snips to give a close haircut to a...


Antique shop

Antique shop

Most of the items in this display were not antiques. They were only recently used,...


Bus stop oasis

Bus stop oasis

My brother Brian and I were taking a bus from Ghazni to Gardez, along a...


Butchers

Butchers

Proudly wearing their sharpening bars on their belts, two butchers in the marketplace take a...


Camels at Caravanasi

Camels at Caravanasi

Like a truck stop, caravansi are places to rest, refuel your vehicle, and transfer freight....


Aqchah

Aqchah

Denuded by goats, the hills in northern Afghanistan are moon-like in their barrenness. The small...


Mosque of Ali

Mosque of Ali

After the steady browns and muted earth tones of rural Afghanistan, the vibrant blues, greens...


Tea House, Herat

Tea House, Herat

The Afghani version of Starbucks. Men sit on carpets and sip green tea from well-worn...


Donkey Taxi, Herat

Donkey Taxi, Herat

If camels are the trucks of Central Asia, then donkeys are the jeeps. While kids...


Horse blanket

Horse blanket

Afghani weaving skills go into making a horse blanket and a saddle carpet -- as...


Butcher with fat-tail sheep

Butcher with fat-tail sheep

The fatter the sheep, the better. This fat-tailed variety of sheep was especially prized in...


The steppes in spring

The steppes in spring

Looking north from the foothills of the Amjuman mountains. This was once known as the...